Tag Archives: womenswear

NYFW SS17: Desigual

Desigual is always one of my favorite shows during NYFW. Exuberant. Happy-making. Uplifting. And delightfully designed.

This season was no different. All about the “Global Traveller,” the show certainly transported those in the audience. Magical embroideries, prints, embellishments and crocheted textures.

Book my flight. I’m ready.

Photos courtesy of Bjorn Nasett, The Fashion Farmboy, www.fashionfarmboy.com

 

Desigual SS17 Desigual SS17

Photos by Bjorn Nasett www.fashionfarmboy.com

Photos by Bjorn Nasett
www.fashionfarmboy.com

Rubin & Chapelle AW15:
Freezing for Fashion

Yes, that’s a partially frozen Hudson River below, the view west past the models at the Rubin & Chapelle Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation from the Top of the Standard near the High Line last Friday. That also was the tundra-like landscape off which the wind whipped, chilling to the bone the journalists, bloggers and photographers invited to cover that show, many of whom were made to wait outside for over half an hour in the wildly windy “feels like” temps of that day. Some of those fashionably-attired previously-mentioned were dressed wearing no socks but cool (no pun intended) pumps, short dresses, no hats or scarves — and had to huddle together en masse for warmth before making it upstairs. We never found out the reason for the 10th Avenue fashion freeze out.

Rubin & Chapelle AW15But, anyway, once we made it inside and up to the venue with the stunning views, we warmed to not only the indoor temperatures, but also to the adorable, wearable clothes. Worked up by partners in design Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle who collaborated with designer Johanna Michel, prints referenced traditional Scottish motifs, but rescaled and distorted digitally for versions of tartan and argyle. Hence, the Wellies-styled footwear by Sperry Top-Sider paired with many of the outfits. Outstanding favorites, and those that should be super popular come next fall/winter, were the circle skirts in graphic black and white or grey, an equestrian-themed dolman blouse and the graphic printed long dresses. Personally, I loved the bit of distressed edges on armholes; I’m always one for a raw uneven finish, as long as I can layer under it.

Rubin & Chapelle AW15 Rubin & Chapelle AW15 Rubin & Chapelle AW15 Rubin & Chapelle AW15 Rubin & Chapelle AW15

Saunder AW15: A Resounding Royal Oui

I hate to be a cry baby, but this was one of the worst venues to maneuver around in the name of “viewing fashion.” Perhaps I was upset because I lost my favorite black wool knit hat there while trying to do just that. Maybe it was because I almost fell into one of the models standing on her raised pedestal after someone with a backpack swung around to take said model’s picture. Or chalk it up to having to squeeze through non-existing holes in fashionistas six abreast to get from the first group of models to the end of the fashion gauntlet. Whenever it was, the narrow little presentation path at Ed’s Chowder House at The Empire Hotel was clearly entirely too narrow to encourage great fashion feedback.

But, ah, there’s the rub. I actually fell in love with much of designer Emily Saunders’ Saunder AW2015 collection. Her creative refashioning of clothing based around the cutting off of wife Catherine of Aragon by Henry the Eighth (or was that her head?!) was inspired by London stage adaptations of Hilary Mantel’s novels Wolf Hall and Bring Up the Bodies. She stuck with the metaphor on many levels, from makeup to fingertips.

Saunders gave a quirky nod to tweeds, tartans, Tudor tailoring and punk. But it was the nails that were to die for, as was the jewelry. Accessories designer Megan Isaacs, in a fourth collaboration with Saunder that she called Modern Tudor, put forth an heirloom box’s worth of jewelry meant for a queen. And the nails? Nail artist Patricia Yankee crafted each one into tiny jewelry on the end of each finger.

This is fashion you don’t need to lose your head over — it’s easy to understand and will be great to wear next winter. Have a look; we’ve already parted the crowds for you.

Saunder AW15 Saunder AW15 Saunder AW15 Saunder AW15 Saunder AW15 Saunder AW15

Spotlight on 3 at Concept Korea SS15

Concept Korea, the collaborative event bringing Korean designers to the U.S. market, celebrates ten seasons at Mercedes-Benze Fashion Week, having kicked into existence in 2010. Three designers shared the spotlight for Spring/Summer 2015: Leyii Designer Seunghee Lee, Beyond CLoset designer Tae Yong, and Resurrection designer Juyoung Lee. Lee concentrated on contemporary cuts and saturated colors or black and white on raw silks; Yong focused on preppy, athleisure menswear with poppy twist; Lee had the most forward collection, with her sophisticated, edgy menswear.

Leyii

Leyii SS15 Concept Korea Leyii

Leyii Designer Seunghee Lee

Beyond Closet

Beyond Closet SS15 Beyond ClosetBeyond CLoset designer Tae Yong SS15

Resurrection

Resurrection SS15

Resurrection

Resurrection designer Juyoung Lee

Resurrection designer Juyoung Lee

Zimmermann SS15: Floaty, Feminine Freedom

Australian-based Zimmermann, founded almost 25 years ago in Sydney by sisters Nicky and Simone, called its Spring/Summer 2015 collection “Tell Me, Seer,” and the clothing spoke loud and clear — well, actually whispered softly yet strongly — about the future of fashion for the upcoming season. The words that echoed in my ears were frilly, feminine, floaty, fun to wear. And oh so very, very pretty. Plus, as a mix of swimwear, daywear and evening wear (loved the trench-coat topped long dress), the collection spoke to so many different levels of dress.

Dresses swayed elegantly down the runway, crafted with asymmetrical handkerchief hems. Jackets fit sculpturally, cinched and sashed at waists. Swim suits stepped out ruffled, cut-out and seemed more like bodysuits, in many cases. Patterned chiffon inset with asymmetric panels of lace, was ruffled, long and left simplicity in its wake. Metallics gleamed and glistened. A soft palette of pale peaches beckoned.

Stevie Nicks, do you hear me?!

Zimmermann SS15 Zimmermann SS15
Zimmerman SS15 Zimmerman SS15

Zimmerman SS15

The Australian designer taking her bow

The Australian designer taking her bow

Georgine SS15: Ooo! Ooo! Let’s All Chant!

Models practically floated by as the disco-era song playing at the end of Georgine’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway presentation cooed: “Ooo! Ooo! Let’s All Chant! Your body. My body. Everybody work your body.” And work those bodies did they ever! Luxurious, elegant, sophisticated. This was one collection I was truly lucky to have been brought to by a colleague!

Designer Georgine Ratelband’s eponymous collection of caftans, cabana wear and gold lamé was a toast to the glamour days of disco, tweaked just enough for today’s modern contemporary woman. Floating chiffons, hot pants, cropped leather jackets, gold lamé track suits, neoprene gowns, maillot swim dressing — I half expected Bianca Jagger to saunter down the runway, decked out and ready for a night on the town at Studio 54.

Echoing many of this season’s hottest trends — from sheer to shiny metallics to floaty, long skirts — Georgine embraced the epitome of chicness. I only hope next season this designer will stand on a statement of compassion and change her finale of fur-draped cabana girls into faux-draped animal lovers. That’s a look that can be just as powerful and make just as strong a luxury statement. In fact… C’est plus chic, ma chère.  Who needs fur besides the animal it belongs to, especially lounging poolside on a hot summer’s day?

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Ricardo Seco SS15: “Dreams” Come True

Ricardo Seco is dreaming big these days. The former menswear-only designer is now creating womenswear and showed both in his “Dreams” collection for Spring/Summer 2015 last night at 7 World Trade Center. Using that venue on the eve of the 9/11 anniversary, plus his collaboration with the Wixárika tribe (a native Huichol Mexican community), Seco waxed positive about the next generation’s “future dreamers.”

Seco launched his menswear here three years ago, the only Mexican designer to participate in New York Fashion Week. This season, he incorporated an urban backdrop of black and white leather, neoprene, silk and cotton set against luxurious and ebullient hand-beaded embellishment in keeping with his Mexican heritage. The designer definitely has hit his stride, combining his signature rock and roll ambience with effortless sportswear dressing that proves a perfect fashion foil for the contemporary man or woman. Both were sophisticated, cool and very New York City, styled with handmade sunnies, custom-beaded New Balance trainers, handbags, even intricately surfaced, over-the-top skateboards. When asked after the show if the designer were taking up boarding as a way of getting around the city, Seco laughed, “Maybe next month!”

Creating his own dawn of a new existence, Seco raised the shades behind the models at the end of his runway presentation, showing off the 9/11 Memorial site below amid the southern tip of the city — perhaps as a testament to the Wixárika culture’s Eye of God, perhaps signifying waking from a perfect dream. Either way, what a beautiful and positive wake up a call.

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15 Ricardo Seco SS15 Ricardo Seco SS15 Ricardo Seco SS15

 

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15 Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photos courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Noon By Noor SS15

For some reason, I felt very emotionally touched by the Noon by Noor show, almost to the point of tears at one point. Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa, cousins and childhood friends, have come far with the sophistication level of their clothing, and for Spring/Summer 2015 the direction was coolness personified, chicness with a slight ladylike tweak. Using nature as their inspiration once again, the design duo turned out their own version of a lush springtime garden on the runway.

Perforated leathers crafted some of the best outerwear I’ve seen this season, while metallic leathers, interpreted as sculptural jackets, shift dresses or tees, were fresh, modern and of-the-moment. Taking inspiration from “beginnings, renewal and youth,” the designers blossomed forth with bold floral and botanical prints for floaty long skirts (another hot trend of the season), sporty harem pants and short day dresses. Metallic-flower-embellished netting was a wonderful overlay detail that gave sporty classiness to many styles, especially dresses. The best, however, were the sculptural evening gowns, notably the black and white versions, that had almost a Japanese feeling in their voluminous cut and elegant structure.

Brava, Noor and Haya!

Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor

Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor

Noon By Noor

Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa

Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa

MBFW Newcomer Taoray Wang Taps
Natalie Portman’s Black Swan As Muse for SS15

The successfully established Chinese women’s wear designer Taoray Wang debuted a globally-influenced eponymous collection inspired by muse Natalie Portman at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2015 this past Monday. The designer reprised the actor’s Black Swan ambience on her runway, presenting an architecturally-crafted, balletic design – replete with details like Black Swan-style “feathers” and origami-like pleating on many of her dresses. Her simple yet elegant designs are meant, she says, for all aspects of a powerful woman’s life.

Wang, who states in her press statement that she is a descendant of the Qing Dynasty, hails from a highly respected fashion background, starting at one of Japan’s top fashion designers, Junko Koshino, as first assistant designer before progressing to board member of the expansive Shanghai Ribo Fashion Group.

Taoray Wang MBFW SS15

 

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Carmen Marc Valvo, Celebrating his Silver Anniversary this SS15

Happy Anniversary to Carmen Marc Valvo, who’s been treating us to exquisite evening gowns created like individual wearable artwork for 25 years now. And the collection he showed Friday for Spring/Summer 2015 at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center was no exception.

The designer sent out dress after dress designed with superb draping, sexy trompe l’oeil “cut-outs” achieved by ingeniously-placed nude netting, a stunning black and white combo used to elegant effect, plus the most magnificent of luxurious metallic shimmery and sheer chiffon silks available in a beauty-enhancing palette.

Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15

To me, the gown above will always be the Silver Anniversary Edition! Even his menswear, including a shorts bedecked cream-colored tux and a sheer black evening shirt worn with a brocade-enhanced dinner jacket, was elegant and breath-taking. Lucky us, we got to visit back stage after the snow for a quick hello, candid model photos on the step-and-repeat and a look at the model board.

Love you, CMV! Happy 25th. Can’t wait for all the gorgeousness leading up to your Golden Anniversary….

Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15

Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15 Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15 Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15

Carmen Marc Valvo MBFW SS15