Tag Archives: SS15

More NYFW: Darrell Cortez SS15 and his Revolution Mission

 

Designer Darrell Cortez had us thinking not only about clothes earlier this past month during New York Fashion Week. He had us thinking about revolution. Revolution within the fashion world, that is. Cortez, below, is urging a sea-change within the fashion industry, for sure, and the clothes from his Revolution collection for Spring/Summer 2015, showed during an evening gallery-turned-runway presentation, underscored a striking, thought-provoking dialogue.

Designer Darrell Cortez

Designer Darrell Cortez taking his end-of-show bow and walk

“My inspiration comes from the colors of the South African flag — red, blue, yellow, green, black and white,” Cortez told journalist Ray Cornelius.  “These colors are reflected all throughout the entire collection including the accessories, the shoes, the clothes, trimming, and patches. It’s spring and summer looks, so I use a lot of bright colors which make it very youthful and vibrant.  My show is a social commentary on the lack of representation of African-Americans in the fashion industry across the board.”

Building upon those South African-inspired colors, using African prints, crisp cottons and easy-to-wear silhouettes, the collection included the coolest contemporary printed suit, a denim knit jumpsuit – the perfect pull-on “suit” for daywear – and swimwear that was bright, color-blocked and sexy. As a fashion industry stalwart since the early ’90s, Cortez has worked with many big-name entertainers, and these were great clothes for the likes of Diddy, Busta Rhymes and Mack Wilds. But Cortez’s biggest underlying theme this season? “Working in the industry for as long as I have,” Cortez said, “you never lose sight of the underrepresentation of Black models. Trust me, there are still more barriers that need to be broken down. I am not anti-White, but I am pro-Black.”

Strong collection. Even stronger message.

Darrell Cortez SS15_3

Darrell Cortez SS15

Darrell Cortez SS15_2

Style Sightings: Capsule Women’s Show SS15

Fashion Week may have jetted off to London last Friday en masse, but there were still style and fashion shows to be seen around the city. Take this past weekend’s Capsule Show down at Basketball City. Love handmade, handcrafted, environmentally-sourced and beautiful things? Check, check, check and CHECK! It was all to be found down off South Street. This season marks the last for Capsule at its Lower East Side location, where it has been based since 2007. Next time, find Capsule on West 22nd Street — Center 548, the former home of the DIA Center — a venue that may be a bit easier to get to during trade show time.

Meanwhile, I’m glad I trekked down this past Saturday in the rain! Take a look at some of the lovely stand-out pieces from the Spring/Summer 2015 clothing collections of Loup Charmant, Milena Silvano, Nancy Stella Soto, Voz and Delphine, as well as sandals and bags from Waltzing Matilda and Proud Mary, jewelry from Kria and Deborah Rice, among others:

Loup Charmant

New details and accessories that includes a collaboration with Artemas Quibble graced Loup Charmant’s ever-growing loveliness

Nancy Stella SotoCut outs, organza and layers were enticing elements at Nancy Stella Soto

Milena Silvano

Handmade, textile-driven, often hand-dyed – all terms crucial to Milena Silvano

Voz

The softest cotton’s at Voz, where Jasmine Aarons creates “with love in Chile and New York”

Duo

Duo, the East Village boutique founded by sisters Wendy and LaRae Kangas, showed at Capsule for the first time in the Cash & Carry section, meaning you could walk out wearing (and owning!) these beauts

Waltzing Mathilda

Navy is the new hit for handmade slip-ons at Waltzing Matilda, the Philly-based leather collection of recycled bags, clutches, shoes

Waltzing Mathilda

Waltzing Matilda

Proud Mary

Charleston-based Harper Poe, designer of Proud Mary, with Peruvian-sourced fabric clutches, above, and leather backpack, below, that was crafted in Paraguay

Proud Mary

Proud Mary

Ilana Kohn

The comfy-est looking indigo linen romper from Ilana Kohn

Kria

Organic and natural-based fish mouth bracelet by Kria designer/founder Jóhanna Methúsalemsdóttir

Jené Despain

Love the ring/bracelet from Jené Despain

Youser

Surrealist stylings by Youser

Torchlight

Dream catchers from Torchlight

Mara and Mine

So cute and comfy! Mara and Mine

Deborah Rice

The tiniest baby seed beads create an offering of coloring and perfection at jewelry designer Deborah Rice, whose gorgeousness is handmade in Brooklyn

Georgine SS15: Ooo! Ooo! Let’s All Chant!

Models practically floated by as the disco-era song playing at the end of Georgine’s Spring/Summer 2015 runway presentation cooed: “Ooo! Ooo! Let’s All Chant! Your body. My body. Everybody work your body.” And work those bodies did they ever! Luxurious, elegant, sophisticated. This was one collection I was truly lucky to have been brought to by a colleague!

Designer Georgine Ratelband’s eponymous collection of caftans, cabana wear and gold lamé was a toast to the glamour days of disco, tweaked just enough for today’s modern contemporary woman. Floating chiffons, hot pants, cropped leather jackets, gold lamé track suits, neoprene gowns, maillot swim dressing — I half expected Bianca Jagger to saunter down the runway, decked out and ready for a night on the town at Studio 54.

Echoing many of this season’s hottest trends — from sheer to shiny metallics to floaty, long skirts — Georgine embraced the epitome of chicness. I only hope next season this designer will stand on a statement of compassion and change her finale of fur-draped cabana girls into faux-draped animal lovers. That’s a look that can be just as powerful and make just as strong a luxury statement. In fact… C’est plus chic, ma chère.  Who needs fur besides the animal it belongs to, especially lounging poolside on a hot summer’s day?

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Parke & Ronen SS15: Swimmingly Designed

Nothing like a little beefcake to get the ol’ heart racing on a hot afternoon.

And there was no shortage of minor cardiac palpitations spiking viewers of the Spring/Summer 2015 Parke & Ronen show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week last Thursday. This is, after all, primarily a swim-oriented label, so lots of skin is practically de rigueur. In their runway show at Industria Superstudio, the design duo Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel continued their focus on the sexiest swim wear and coolest sportswear around for their “Dickie Greenleaf” collection, inspired by The Talented Mr. Ripley character’s penchant for being lucky and having a blast.

Count the audience in for a great time, too. Fun patterns, bold brights and slim silhouettes — all on half-dressed buff models — rocked a house that included fan Alan Cumming, who has been starring with Michelle Williams in the stage revival of “Cabaret.”

In here, life is beautiful. Indeed.

Parke & Ronen SS15

Parke & Ronen SS15 Parke & Ronen SS15 Parke & Ronen SS15 Parke & Ronen SS15

Parke & Ronen SS15

Parke & Ronen SS15

 

Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel

Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel

Ricardo Seco SS15: “Dreams” Come True

Ricardo Seco is dreaming big these days. The former menswear-only designer is now creating womenswear and showed both in his “Dreams” collection for Spring/Summer 2015 last night at 7 World Trade Center. Using that venue on the eve of the 9/11 anniversary, plus his collaboration with the Wixárika tribe (a native Huichol Mexican community), Seco waxed positive about the next generation’s “future dreamers.”

Seco launched his menswear here three years ago, the only Mexican designer to participate in New York Fashion Week. This season, he incorporated an urban backdrop of black and white leather, neoprene, silk and cotton set against luxurious and ebullient hand-beaded embellishment in keeping with his Mexican heritage. The designer definitely has hit his stride, combining his signature rock and roll ambience with effortless sportswear dressing that proves a perfect fashion foil for the contemporary man or woman. Both were sophisticated, cool and very New York City, styled with handmade sunnies, custom-beaded New Balance trainers, handbags, even intricately surfaced, over-the-top skateboards. When asked after the show if the designer were taking up boarding as a way of getting around the city, Seco laughed, “Maybe next month!”

Creating his own dawn of a new existence, Seco raised the shades behind the models at the end of his runway presentation, showing off the 9/11 Memorial site below amid the southern tip of the city — perhaps as a testament to the Wixárika culture’s Eye of God, perhaps signifying waking from a perfect dream. Either way, what a beautiful and positive wake up a call.

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

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Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photo courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15 Ricardo Seco SS15

Ricardo Seco SS15

Photos courtesy of Cathering Schetting Salfino

Ricardo Seco SS15

Noon By Noor SS15

For some reason, I felt very emotionally touched by the Noon by Noor show, almost to the point of tears at one point. Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa, cousins and childhood friends, have come far with the sophistication level of their clothing, and for Spring/Summer 2015 the direction was coolness personified, chicness with a slight ladylike tweak. Using nature as their inspiration once again, the design duo turned out their own version of a lush springtime garden on the runway.

Perforated leathers crafted some of the best outerwear I’ve seen this season, while metallic leathers, interpreted as sculptural jackets, shift dresses or tees, were fresh, modern and of-the-moment. Taking inspiration from “beginnings, renewal and youth,” the designers blossomed forth with bold floral and botanical prints for floaty long skirts (another hot trend of the season), sporty harem pants and short day dresses. Metallic-flower-embellished netting was a wonderful overlay detail that gave sporty classiness to many styles, especially dresses. The best, however, were the sculptural evening gowns, notably the black and white versions, that had almost a Japanese feeling in their voluminous cut and elegant structure.

Brava, Noor and Haya!

Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor

Noon By Noor Noon By Noor Noon By Noor

Noon By Noor

Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa

Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa

Darkoh Does Brights, Whites and Slim Right for SS15

Menswear designer Joyce Darkoh does tailoring for young dudes in a very, very contemporary way.

This German-born designer, whose background is in creating in-between sizes for unusual body shapes, a ready-to-wear made-to-measure if you will, launched her Darkoh line just last year. This Monday during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, she led off her Spring/Summer 2015 collection with bright blue bespoke suits razor cut to the slimmest silhouette possible. She tempered that palette with pinks, popped in some silk tweeds, even a sweater or two,  then shot in white cotton satin with a contrasting peak or shawl lapel trimmed in blue denim for elegant yet youthful evening attire.

Grab it while you can, guys! Prices are quite affordable, at under $1000 for luxury worsted wools, silks and cottons from renowned Italian and English mills.

Darkoh SS15

Darkoh SS15 Darkoh SS15 Darkoh SS15

Darkoh SS15

MBFW Newcomer Taoray Wang Taps
Natalie Portman’s Black Swan As Muse for SS15

The successfully established Chinese women’s wear designer Taoray Wang debuted a globally-influenced eponymous collection inspired by muse Natalie Portman at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2015 this past Monday. The designer reprised the actor’s Black Swan ambience on her runway, presenting an architecturally-crafted, balletic design – replete with details like Black Swan-style “feathers” and origami-like pleating on many of her dresses. Her simple yet elegant designs are meant, she says, for all aspects of a powerful woman’s life.

Wang, who states in her press statement that she is a descendant of the Qing Dynasty, hails from a highly respected fashion background, starting at one of Japan’s top fashion designers, Junko Koshino, as first assistant designer before progressing to board member of the expansive Shanghai Ribo Fashion Group.

Taoray Wang MBFW SS15

 

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1 Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Taoray Wang MBFW SS1

Just Another L.A. Day: Trina Turk, Mr Turk
and their Flower Market Buyout for SS15

I have just two words for the Spring/Summer 2015 collections of Trina Turk and Mr Turk:

EXTREME COLOR!

Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15

Oh, yeah, and let’s add in selfies for everyone, as the models were told to keep their Smart Phones (branded brilliantly, of course, with Trina Turk phone covers) and document the presentation for Instagram. Double whammy of a PR Wham, Bam, Thank You, M’am! And, yep, that’s Trink Turk, below, capturing the moment after the walk-through with her designer hubby Jonathan Skow, surrounded by their fun-loving gang of girls and guys.

Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15

The duo put forth a kaleidoscopic range (we are so loving that term for this season — cuz it fits) of hue and pattern influenced by a trip to the L.A. Flower Market. Based on the hothouse hues they presented, it looked as though they bought out the entire market that day! Each tableaux vignette focused on some aspect of a fun day in the sun, with female models blooming in Trina Turk’s trippy patterned maxi dresses, sweet short sets or poufy sundresses and guy models in Mr Turk’s tropical shorts, pop art swim trunks, super slim trousers and boldly printed tailored suits perfect for those schmoozing L.A. poolside parties. So, naturally, there was swimwear. Because what L.A. day isn’t complete without a quick jaunt to the beaches of Santa Monica or Venice?!

Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15 Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15

Trina Turk and Mr Turk SS15