For some reason, I felt very emotionally touched by the Noon by Noor show, almost to the point of tears at one point. Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa, cousins and childhood friends, have come far with the sophistication level of their clothing, and for Spring/Summer 2015 the direction was coolness personified, chicness with a slight ladylike tweak. Using nature as their inspiration once again, the design duo turned out their own version of a lush springtime garden on the runway.
Perforated leathers crafted some of the best outerwear I’ve seen this season, while metallic leathers, interpreted as sculptural jackets, shift dresses or tees, were fresh, modern and of-the-moment. Taking inspiration from “beginnings, renewal and youth,” the designers blossomed forth with bold floral and botanical prints for floaty long skirts (another hot trend of the season), sporty harem pants and short day dresses. Metallic-flower-embellished netting was a wonderful overlay detail that gave sporty classiness to many styles, especially dresses. The best, however, were the sculptural evening gowns, notably the black and white versions, that had almost a Japanese feeling in their voluminous cut and elegant structure.
Brava, Noor and Haya!
Designers Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa
The vibe was definitely “Cali Style” on Friday, as Mark Tango and Estel Day of Mark and Estel embraced the insouciance of LA amid their new song “Malibu Anthem” for a Spring/Summer 2015 collection of all cotton that emulated leather, silk, wool and metal and is completely, 100% Made in the USA.
Jeans were hot and rockin’. The result was effortless, youthful and cool. And that was just the designers themselves! The actual clothes were slim-silhouetted for jeans, short for skirts, floaty and dropped-hemmed for rock-festival-perfect tops. The requisite designer bow at the end of the runway encompassed instead a live performance of their anthem, much to the delight of the normally jaded fashion crowd.
Real Housewife of NY Soja Morgan was front and center, with her Image Guru, Montgomery Frasier, close at hand when congratulating the duo backstage.
Fun. Flamboyant. Happy-making. The Barcelona-based Desigual consistently delivers the goods and this season’s “Say something nice” collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week on Thursday was no different, with fashion that set the tone for the Spring/Summer ’15 season.
Opening and closing the show with the sexy, smiling Adriana Lima, the designers (the house has collaborated with renowned international haute couturier Christian Lacroix since 2011) presented a love letter to their lady in a swath of bold, uncompromisingly wearable silhouettes — easy maxi and mini dresses, shorts and tees, jumpsuits, jackets and coats — embellished with sumptuous tropical floral prints, embroideries, crochets or lace, and in a kaleidoscopic burst of color. Like mini-explosions of happiness all over the place. Even black and white outfits were treated to a little tint of something. Floral headpieces, blossoming handbags and hot-hued strappy platform sandals only added to the hothouse flower ambience.
Thanks for the flowers, Desigual!
Since introducing women’s wear last season, what else could Duckie Brown design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver do but get their hands back into men’s pants? I mean, into changing the silhouette, that is.
After all, the two are known for their ever-changing play of menswear shapes, silhouettes and proportions. This season they introduced a pant form inspired by the ’20s and ’30s — high waisted, baggy and loose in the bum achieved by using a curved seam on the trouser, with a bit of a long, dropped crotch and a slim leg.
Manifesting this new shape in plaids or khakis and topping with sporty squared-and-cropped camp shirts and bucket hats gave the collection a sort of updated my-uncle-the-retiree-in-Miami-Beach feeling. But in a very edgy, modern way.
Pale pink injected a fresh breath to a palette of grays, whites and khakis, while a shock of shiny glittering cobalt jolted gray, navy and black checked trousers and utility jackets.
In all, this was one of the most wearable “fashion” spring/summer 2015 menswear collections seen this season.