Tag Archives: NYFW

Ricardo Seco AW14 –
Ask Not What Your Designer Can Do for You…

Ask what the Kennedys can do for your designer!

The 35th president of the United States and his family played a major influence in “Forever,” the AW14 menswear collection of Mexican-born designer Ricardo Seco, who showed yesterday evening at the always-impressive Angel Orensanz Foundation space.

Designer Ricardo Seco

Designer Ricardo Seco

As the show started down the runway with JFK’s voice intoning over the sound system, you realized that this model was wearing a sweatshirt printed with Jackie’s face, that one was swaggering by with a young JFK, Jr. saluting on his cashmere sweater, another one was wearing what could only be described as the original Jackie Kennedy Oleg Cassini A-line coat, replete with the oversized cloth-covered buttons and 3/4 sleeves.

Then there were the scarves. Silk scarves printed Warhol-like with Jackie-O and John John were tied low around the chests of Seco’s models, almost like a bondage style shawl. Ricardo told me after the show that he was inspired by the ’60s Kennedy era for his urban man, taking Jackie Kennedy’s penchant for pastels, A-line silhouettes and classic Americana styles and working them into a masculine, tailored collection.

He definitely got that right. Some of the covered-button coats may have looked a little like a guy playing dress up in styles from the thrift store, but stranger things have happened within the rock ‘n roll set, who, at least with dressing à la Jackie Kennedy, can place the style bar high. And as the coat kept coming down the runway in various renditions, it started to grow on me. The mohair charcoal Jackie coat was super cool. And there were other elements that I liked. The pink pants rocked. A black and grey pieced car coat worn over a “Pillboxes & Peacoats” printed T, leather shorts over coordinating pieced leggings was a little bit urban, a little bit punk. And while the scarves were surely a runway scarf trick, the sweaters printed with Jackie-O and little John John saluting will be great novelty sellers.

Seco closed the show with the Simon and Garfunkel classic “The Sound of Silence,” a song written in the aftermath of JFK’s assassination, as his models took to a tableaux on the stage behind him, the better to look at and photograph the clothes.

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Noon by Noor AW14

Designing cousins Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa presented their take on contemporary evening wear to a front row that included The Face’s host, Nigel Barker. Colors were saturated, Swarovski crystals were plentiful and skirts were long, drapey and dramatic. My favorites were the camel coat-covered red party dress toward the beginning of the show and the burgundy floor-sweeper encrusted with bling. The super messy pony-tail hair do’s and the deep burgundy wine lip were great styling elements that accentuated the Eastern-Western influence of the Noon by Noor collection.

The Face's Nigel Barker

The Face’s Nigel Barker

Noon by Noor AW14

Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14

Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14

It’s in the Bag at Trina Turk and Mr Turk AW14

Handbags may have been the newest addition manifested from Trina Turk’s imagination, but the freshness came directly from the clothes themselves.

Trina Turk AW14

Her eponymous women’s collection, shown in tandem with Mr Turk menswear for AW14 at The Hudson Hotel’s The Hub venue last week, was modern yet nostalgic at the same time. Trina cited California cool as the inspiration, as though the Turks had spun along “Sunset Boulevard through LA from Silverlake to the sea.” Fresh mixes of patterns, colors, textures and cuts made their Palm Springs-focused mark. Think bold florals, vibrant reds and turqs, tweeds and plaids. Swingy shorter jacket silhouettes. Sexy and slim pants and skirts. And those handbags! Just the right amount of edge to stave off any lady-like prissiness. Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Mr Turk, designed by photographer/stylist/Trina husband Jonathan Skow, had a retro gentleman’s-punk attitude going on, echoing the womenswear with a slim fit, quirky pattern combos and color mixes. Jonathan has said the menswear is exactly his style. And he wears it well.

These two collections looked so cool, so modern, they could’ve been seen out on Lincoln Center’s Plaza, being stalked by the street style blog photogs instead of being showcased in the basement of the The Hub. These are clothes that are as perfect for jumping around from fashion show to show as they are for the upcoming Oscars Red Carpet wear – how ’bout those his-and-hers black and green jacquard tuxes? Gotta be fresh.

Mr. Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Trina Turk and Mr Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Designer Trink Turk wearing her Mr. Turk menswear

Designer Trink Turk wearing her Mr. Turk menswear

Mr. Turk designer Jonathan Skow

Mr. Turk designer Jonathan Skow

Sweet Swag Suite

Thank you, GBK! I came away from NYFW and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week last Friday feeling beautiful, pampered and loved, thanks to GBK’s Style and Gift Lounge in the Empire Hotel. Look at me! I’m positively glowing in Catherine’s photo below!

Apres Hard Candy makeover and relaxation at the GBK Celebrity Gift Lounge at The Empire Hotel

Apres Hard Candy makeover and relaxation at the GBK Celebrity Gift Lounge at The Empire Hotel. Photo courtesy of Catherine Salfino.

That was taken after makeup artist Irene Kim had worked her magic on me with Hard Candy Continue reading

Men in Skirts – Duckie Brown “Dresses” Guys for SS14

Duckie Brown’s design duo of Steven Cox and Daniel Silver never fails to impress. They always shake up things, from wide open silhouettes that prompt proportion play to standard menswear mashups. This season they opened their Spring 2014 show at Industria with Leikeli47’s “Miss America” – a catchy little number that musically insisted “I dress like a boy, talk like a girl” – and sent their Duckie dears out in skirts, layered aprons, elongated halter shirts and drop-crotch shorts. The effect was thoroughly modern, Milly! The stalwart palette of white, navy and khaki ensured a wearability and understandability that the basketball skirts may have belied. Don’t forget the style renderings of Braveheart, Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood…skirts are old-school menswear. And, really, who doesn’t like a man in a uniform?!

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Tocca’s Tiny Dancer SS14

Brava, brava! Sweet and lovely, Emma Fletcher’s SS14 collection for Tocca, held at the Pier 59 Studios, embraced the dancer in us all. Off-duty, onstage, stepping lively. The dresses make you want to twirl and float, the shiny bras and panties provide for loungewear or under secrets bursting with energetic vibrancy perfect for a romantic pas de deux.

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Green for Beauty – NYFW SS14 Kick Off

The site of A Night of Green Beauty. at the James Corbett Studio this evening

The site of A Night of Green Beauty. at the James Corbett Studio this evening

Bet you’re going to be green with envy!

I popped into the James Corbett Studio in Chelsea for “A Night of Green Beauty,” a beauty fair of sorts…the kind that touted all-natural, clean, organic, hand-crafted artisanal or personally-formulated as crucial key terminology, the kind that kicked off New York Fashion Week today (along with a handful of menswear shows, like Michael Bastian, Kye and Raleigh), the kind that Continue reading

∅DD. was really pretty normal

Odd aw

Wanted to share the vision of one of the downtown designer teams whose work I thoroughly enjoyed during New York Fashion Week. Designed by best friends Judson Harmon and Jordan Klein (they so sweetly thanked each as such in their show notes), ∅DD.’s “Leviticus” collection, a beautifully succinct and well-edited variation on a theme – 15 outfits for men, 15 for women – paid tribute to the look and feel of old bibles. When we spoke to Judson before the runway aspect of the design duo’s avant garde cello and art installation presentation at Industria Superstudios, he said he was totally enamoured with the old parchment in bibles and books that he collects and used this for a stain treatment within the collection. The co-designers called it “old ideals brought anew” in their run of show.

Perhaps not so oddly enough (Judson, after all, is designer, model, stylist and retailer), ØDD. not only designs its own fashion manifestations, but also sells like-minded designer clothing (Judson favors wearing Rick Owens and the like) at its Lower East Side boutique. I highly recommend checking out their sensibility on your next journey downtown.  (164 Ludlow St between E Houston and Stanton Sts; 646-559-0406, odd-style.com)

Odd men's

Zuzu Kim AW13 – Sculptural Stage Elegance

Designer Christina "Zuzu" Kim

The adorable designer Christina “Zuzu” Kim

This label’s moniker comes from designer Christina “Zuzu” Kim’s nickname her grandmother gave her for a sound she used to make as a small child. It also brings to mind the child Zuzu Bailey in “It’s a Wonderful Life.”

Kim, a self-trained professional classic pianist, started creating her own styles to wear during her stage performances, seeking comfortable, elegant clothing that she couldn’t find anywhere else. Entering the suite where Kim presented her tightly edited, four-season exclusive collection Wednesday at The Empire Hotel, fittingly across from Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center, it sounded like we were being treated to the recorded sounds of perhaps Glenn Gould. It all started making perfect sense.

While the clothes are not at retail yet, they are available for private orders. A bronze and black asymmetrically draped silk dress, elegantly criss-crossing at the bodice and falling floor length on one side, would make for a perfect red carpet or Avery Fisher Hall stage moment. The portrait collared coat with leather sleeves – sophisticated and edgy – would be a great statement piece when one must look amazing in the cold, perhaps while waiting for the paparazzi to finish their performance.

Asymmetric silk dress, bottom left

Asymmetric silk dress, bottom left

The wool portrait collar coat with leather sleeves

The wool portrait collar coat with leather sleeves

Kim also showed a pair of metallic-shot textured silk and wool shorts with a matching pieced blazer – adorable, yet grown up enough for any up-and-coming young actress hitting the “runways” of awards shows. Leather piecing played a role in many of Kim’s pieces, especially a fuchsia gown with a leather and lace trompe l’oeil bustier top. Silk charmeuse had a bit of stretch to it. Every piece looked elegant and easy to wear.

Trompe l'oeil bustier gown

Trompe l’oeil bustier gown

Some very interesting facts about this young designer: Kim has a repertoire of worldwide experience as the daughter of the former South Korean Ambassador to Saudi Arabia. She studied fashion and fabrics at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, starting her own atelier during that time. She later joined Mary McFadden in New York, where she was appointed head designer within one year. Kim told us she loves silk charmeuse and is known for her tuxedo pants suits, modeling for us the ivory rendition she was wearing that featured a flattering peplum of pleats in the back.

Brava, Ms “Zuzu” Kim, brava!

Back view of Christina's "Zuzu Kim" tuxedo jacket

Back view of Christina’s “Zuzu Kim” tuxedo jacket