Tag Archives: NYFW

NYFW SS17: Desigual

Desigual is always one of my favorite shows during NYFW. Exuberant. Happy-making. Uplifting. And delightfully designed.

This season was no different. All about the “Global Traveller,” the show certainly transported those in the audience. Magical embroideries, prints, embellishments and crocheted textures.

Book my flight. I’m ready.

Photos courtesy of Bjorn Nasett, The Fashion Farmboy, www.fashionfarmboy.com

 

Desigual SS17 Desigual SS17

Photos by Bjorn Nasett www.fashionfarmboy.com

Photos by Bjorn Nasett
www.fashionfarmboy.com

It May Be NYFW, But Don’t Forget About Menswear!

Bjorn Nasett, my fashion buddy (and general all-around great guy; you NEED to know him, too!) shared my menswear trend wrap up ideas with his Amazing Goodwill readers recently. As NYFW swings into full force this weekend, here’s a little wrap-up rewind of menswear love to balance out the women’s runway offerings!

http://www.amazinggoodwill.com/ask-the-experts/fashion-expert-bjorn-nasett/menswear-trend-watch

Bjorn Nasett for the Amazing Goodwill Bjorn Nasett for the Amazing Goodwill

NYFW AW15: Stephen F and The Oak Room’s Last Photo Shoot

There’s a new kid in town for menswear. Metaphorically speaking, that is. Stephen F isn’t really  new, but he does seem to be taking New York by storm right now in a fresh, new manner. And as he should be. Suffice it to say, I have fallen for this handsomely talented man and his elegant work.

Swedish designer Stephen Ferber, creative director behind Stephen-F menswear collection, sharing a smile backstage pre-presentation at The Oak Room.

Swedish designer Stephen Ferber, creative director behind Stephen F menswear collection, sharing a smile backstage prior to his presentation at The Oak Room.

I first experienced Stephen F at last season’s New York Men’s Day, all tailored loveliness and sleek leather bomber jackets; however, the clothes were altered to fit female models and you couldn’t tell how they might suit a real guy. Fast-forward to this week’s show at The Oak Room at The Plaza Hotel — and all questions to that end were answered.

Creative Director/designer Stephen Ferber’s AW15 “Lili Collection,” serendipitously presented during a six-week window of availability before The Oak Room closes to undergo renovations  (his PR genius Paula Rosado called it “The Last Photo Shoot at The Oak Room”), is a beautiful creative homage to Ferber’s maternal grandmother, who survived Auschwitz.

With models maneuvering in front of three white seamless stations amid a stylish group of editors and buyers, the clothes spoke for themselves. Brand ambassador, model and business partner Alex Lundqvist, seen below with Stephen, is the perfect face of the brand, which focuses on clothing crafted in the same Italian factories that assemble Zegna and Corneliani, as well as on sportswear that is elegant, suave and effortless. I was extremely impressed with the accessories, too, which included deerskin or fur portfolio/ hand warmers. Stephen F’s clothes, dark, luxe, all sharp cuts and trim tailoring, represent wearable luxury today’s modern guy will be drawn to acquire.

Speaking of buying, I spied Saks Fifth Avenue’s VP/Fashion Director Eric Jennings perusing the montages of models, making me hopeful that Saks will start carrying some of the Stephen F menswear. Stephen F’s creative results are too good not to be available in the States. Note that there should be news about a flagship shop opening here soon in NYC. Both Stephen and Alex mentioned they were waiting for paperwork to be finalized, possibly as early as yesterday.

Stay tuned for updates here, guys, regarding Stephen F’s availability for next winter. I know you’re going to want to snap up this designer’s elegant clothing the minute you touch it, let alone wear it around a fitting room.

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Designer/Creative Director Stephen-F flanked by business partner/model Alex Lundqvist and models.

Stephen with business partner Alex Lundqvist, who makes for a great brand ambassador of the collection

Stephen with business partner Alex Lundqvist, also the brand ambassador of the collection, seen here wearing a green velvet db tuxedo over a cashmere turtleneck.

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I couldn't resist, I remember working with model Alex Lundqvist back in my DNR days. Such a handsome, lovely man, heis now business partners with Stephen Ferber for the Stephen-F collection.

I couldn’t resist – I remember working with model Alex Lundqvist back in my DNR days. Such a handsome, lovely man, the business partner still has the sweetest personality. 

Rubin & Chapelle AW15:
Freezing for Fashion

Yes, that’s a partially frozen Hudson River below, the view west past the models at the Rubin & Chapelle Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation from the Top of the Standard near the High Line last Friday. That also was the tundra-like landscape off which the wind whipped, chilling to the bone the journalists, bloggers and photographers invited to cover that show, many of whom were made to wait outside for over half an hour in the wildly windy “feels like” temps of that day. Some of those fashionably-attired previously-mentioned were dressed wearing no socks but cool (no pun intended) pumps, short dresses, no hats or scarves — and had to huddle together en masse for warmth before making it upstairs. We never found out the reason for the 10th Avenue fashion freeze out.

Rubin & Chapelle AW15But, anyway, once we made it inside and up to the venue with the stunning views, we warmed to not only the indoor temperatures, but also to the adorable, wearable clothes. Worked up by partners in design Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle who collaborated with designer Johanna Michel, prints referenced traditional Scottish motifs, but rescaled and distorted digitally for versions of tartan and argyle. Hence, the Wellies-styled footwear by Sperry Top-Sider paired with many of the outfits. Outstanding favorites, and those that should be super popular come next fall/winter, were the circle skirts in graphic black and white or grey, an equestrian-themed dolman blouse and the graphic printed long dresses. Personally, I loved the bit of distressed edges on armholes; I’m always one for a raw uneven finish, as long as I can layer under it.

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Saunder AW15: A Resounding Royal Oui

I hate to be a cry baby, but this was one of the worst venues to maneuver around in the name of “viewing fashion.” Perhaps I was upset because I lost my favorite black wool knit hat there while trying to do just that. Maybe it was because I almost fell into one of the models standing on her raised pedestal after someone with a backpack swung around to take said model’s picture. Or chalk it up to having to squeeze through non-existing holes in fashionistas six abreast to get from the first group of models to the end of the fashion gauntlet. Whenever it was, the narrow little presentation path at Ed’s Chowder House at The Empire Hotel was clearly entirely too narrow to encourage great fashion feedback.

But, ah, there’s the rub. I actually fell in love with much of designer Emily Saunders’ Saunder AW2015 collection. Her creative refashioning of clothing based around the cutting off of wife Catherine of Aragon by Henry the Eighth (or was that her head?!) was inspired by London stage adaptations of Hilary Mantel’s novels Wolf Hall and Bring Up the Bodies. She stuck with the metaphor on many levels, from makeup to fingertips.

Saunders gave a quirky nod to tweeds, tartans, Tudor tailoring and punk. But it was the nails that were to die for, as was the jewelry. Accessories designer Megan Isaacs, in a fourth collaboration with Saunder that she called Modern Tudor, put forth an heirloom box’s worth of jewelry meant for a queen. And the nails? Nail artist Patricia Yankee crafted each one into tiny jewelry on the end of each finger.

This is fashion you don’t need to lose your head over — it’s easy to understand and will be great to wear next winter. Have a look; we’ve already parted the crowds for you.

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Desigual and Christian Lacroix’s Cultural Mashup AW15

Exotic blanket sweaters is cropping up as one of my favorite trends for Autumn/Winter 2015. Some of the best, including the best pom pom’d berets, printed puffer jacket amid the Oriental carpet motif sweaters, walked the runway at Desigual, where wildly intense colors and patterns helped the happy down the runway for AW15. The collection’s “living canvas,” as stated in the run-of-show notes, was inspired by a global mashup of “the artist’s atelier.” And the artist’s studio in question here would be that of Christian Lacroix’s. Mixing the lush, the exotic, the multicolored and the lavishly textured, Desigual spun out a cultural exchange from inspiration to production. Mix the moments.

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Desigual AW15

Duckie Brown AW15: Tomorrow is Not Just Another Day

Serene, sophisticated, clean…with the prettiest palette this side of Lincoln Center. And, as tends to be the case, one of my favorite menswear collections. There’s always so much creativity, but such that is honed to perfection by unusual cut, impeccable tailoring and ultimate wearability.

Tearing down the walls of backstage and creating a transparency that merged into the front row, designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver put their hopes and dreams for a new “tomorrow,” as their show invite stated, front and center at their West Village venue at Industria. It was one part voyeurism (were you, too, thinking 50 Shades of Brown?!) and one part fashion art performance.

Pinks and clarets in silk charmeuse served as open wrapped cardigans. Floaty white chiffon turtlenecks were tucked into pleated trousers that flowed languid and loose. Collarless overcoats came out in grey flannels and buffalo checks. These were the obvious makings of a grown-up collection worthy of the self-possessed mature man.

Bring it, Duckie. We are ready for tomorrow.

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And the walls came down…prior to the presentation

 

Duckie Brown AW15

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More NYFW: Darrell Cortez SS15 and his Revolution Mission

 

Designer Darrell Cortez had us thinking not only about clothes earlier this past month during New York Fashion Week. He had us thinking about revolution. Revolution within the fashion world, that is. Cortez, below, is urging a sea-change within the fashion industry, for sure, and the clothes from his Revolution collection for Spring/Summer 2015, showed during an evening gallery-turned-runway presentation, underscored a striking, thought-provoking dialogue.

Designer Darrell Cortez

Designer Darrell Cortez taking his end-of-show bow and walk

“My inspiration comes from the colors of the South African flag — red, blue, yellow, green, black and white,” Cortez told journalist Ray Cornelius.  “These colors are reflected all throughout the entire collection including the accessories, the shoes, the clothes, trimming, and patches. It’s spring and summer looks, so I use a lot of bright colors which make it very youthful and vibrant.  My show is a social commentary on the lack of representation of African-Americans in the fashion industry across the board.”

Building upon those South African-inspired colors, using African prints, crisp cottons and easy-to-wear silhouettes, the collection included the coolest contemporary printed suit, a denim knit jumpsuit – the perfect pull-on “suit” for daywear – and swimwear that was bright, color-blocked and sexy. As a fashion industry stalwart since the early ’90s, Cortez has worked with many big-name entertainers, and these were great clothes for the likes of Diddy, Busta Rhymes and Mack Wilds. But Cortez’s biggest underlying theme this season? “Working in the industry for as long as I have,” Cortez said, “you never lose sight of the underrepresentation of Black models. Trust me, there are still more barriers that need to be broken down. I am not anti-White, but I am pro-Black.”

Strong collection. Even stronger message.

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Darrell Cortez SS15

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If the Pants Fit…Duckie Brown’s Latest Silhouette for SS15

Since introducing women’s wear last season, what else could Duckie Brown design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver do but get their hands back into men’s pants? I mean, into changing the silhouette, that is.

After all, the two are known for their ever-changing play of menswear shapes, silhouettes and proportions. This season they introduced a pant form inspired by the ’20s and ’30s — high waisted, baggy and loose in the bum achieved by using a curved seam on the trouser, with a bit of a long, dropped crotch and a slim leg.

Manifesting this new shape in plaids or khakis and topping with sporty squared-and-cropped camp shirts and bucket hats gave the collection a sort of updated my-uncle-the-retiree-in-Miami-Beach feeling. But in a very edgy, modern way.

Pale pink injected a fresh breath to a palette of grays, whites and khakis, while a shock of shiny glittering cobalt jolted gray, navy and black checked trousers and utility jackets.

In all, this was one of the most wearable “fashion” spring/summer 2015 menswear collections seen this season.

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Carmen Marc Valvo AW14 – Medieval Modern

Chain mail, metallic leather, bling for days. These were gowns for the strongest of women, leaders, ladies ready for battle deep into the night. All at the hand of Carmen Marc Valvo, a master of the flowing evening dress. His AW14 styles were transformative.

After the show a very happy CMV gushed to his crowd of admirers and fans, which included the lovely Vanessa Williams. Strong women, indeed.

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Vanessa Williams at Carmen Marc Valvo

Designer Carmen Marc Valvo