Serene, sophisticated, clean…with the prettiest palette this side of Lincoln Center. And, as tends to be the case, one of my favorite menswear collections. There’s always so much creativity, but such that is honed to perfection by unusual cut, impeccable tailoring and ultimate wearability.
Tearing down the walls of backstage and creating a transparency that merged into the front row, designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver put their hopes and dreams for a new “tomorrow,” as their show invite stated, front and center at their West Village venue at Industria. It was one part voyeurism (were you, too, thinking 50 Shades of Brown?!) and one part fashion art performance.
Pinks and clarets in silk charmeuse served as open wrapped cardigans. Floaty white chiffon turtlenecks were tucked into pleated trousers that flowed languid and loose. Collarless overcoats came out in grey flannels and buffalo checks. These were the obvious makings of a grown-up collection worthy of the self-possessed mature man.
Bring it, Duckie. We are ready for tomorrow.
And the walls came down…prior to the presentation
Since introducing women’s wear last season, what else could Duckie Brown design duo Steven Cox and Daniel Silver do but get their hands back into men’s pants? I mean, into changing the silhouette, that is.
After all, the two are known for their ever-changing play of menswear shapes, silhouettes and proportions. This season they introduced a pant form inspired by the ’20s and ’30s — high waisted, baggy and loose in the bum achieved by using a curved seam on the trouser, with a bit of a long, dropped crotch and a slim leg.
Manifesting this new shape in plaids or khakis and topping with sporty squared-and-cropped camp shirts and bucket hats gave the collection a sort of updated my-uncle-the-retiree-in-Miami-Beach feeling. But in a very edgy, modern way.
Pale pink injected a fresh breath to a palette of grays, whites and khakis, while a shock of shiny glittering cobalt jolted gray, navy and black checked trousers and utility jackets.
In all, this was one of the most wearable “fashion” spring/summer 2015 menswear collections seen this season.
Finally! Clothing at Duckie Brown this season that I can actually wear – and all without having to resort to searching for their exquisitely and precisely tailored men’s wear in small sizes. Yes, the Duckie has two faces for Autumn/Winter 2014. Hellooooo, ladies!
But the men’s wear shone as ever before – standing strong on the Duckies’ voluminous cuts, classic silhouettes, cheeky layering, and, this season, their bright and happy colors.
Gotta love a collection that puts on two happy faces.
Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver take their place in the sun as they walk the runway at their show’s finale.
The designers backstage with Joe Jonas
An appreciative punch of color was added to the length and layering that permeated the Duckie Brown show downtown at Industria yesterday. Proportion play, always a highlight of designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver’s collections, was evident in oversized outerwear jackets that became full on coats, colorful “add-ons” to cuffs of pants and the elongated, almost dress or tunic like length of shirts layered underneath.
The floor length probably cashmere topcoat was one of our favs.