Tag Archives: AW15

NYFW AW15: Stephen F and The Oak Room’s Last Photo Shoot

There’s a new kid in town for menswear. Metaphorically speaking, that is. Stephen F isn’t really  new, but he does seem to be taking New York by storm right now in a fresh, new manner. And as he should be. Suffice it to say, I have fallen for this handsomely talented man and his elegant work.

Swedish designer Stephen Ferber, creative director behind Stephen-F menswear collection, sharing a smile backstage pre-presentation at The Oak Room.

Swedish designer Stephen Ferber, creative director behind Stephen F menswear collection, sharing a smile backstage prior to his presentation at The Oak Room.

I first experienced Stephen F at last season’s New York Men’s Day, all tailored loveliness and sleek leather bomber jackets; however, the clothes were altered to fit female models and you couldn’t tell how they might suit a real guy. Fast-forward to this week’s show at The Oak Room at The Plaza Hotel — and all questions to that end were answered.

Creative Director/designer Stephen Ferber’s AW15 “Lili Collection,” serendipitously presented during a six-week window of availability before The Oak Room closes to undergo renovations  (his PR genius Paula Rosado called it “The Last Photo Shoot at The Oak Room”), is a beautiful creative homage to Ferber’s maternal grandmother, who survived Auschwitz.

With models maneuvering in front of three white seamless stations amid a stylish group of editors and buyers, the clothes spoke for themselves. Brand ambassador, model and business partner Alex Lundqvist, seen below with Stephen, is the perfect face of the brand, which focuses on clothing crafted in the same Italian factories that assemble Zegna and Corneliani, as well as on sportswear that is elegant, suave and effortless. I was extremely impressed with the accessories, too, which included deerskin or fur portfolio/ hand warmers. Stephen F’s clothes, dark, luxe, all sharp cuts and trim tailoring, represent wearable luxury today’s modern guy will be drawn to acquire.

Speaking of buying, I spied Saks Fifth Avenue’s VP/Fashion Director Eric Jennings perusing the montages of models, making me hopeful that Saks will start carrying some of the Stephen F menswear. Stephen F’s creative results are too good not to be available in the States. Note that there should be news about a flagship shop opening here soon in NYC. Both Stephen and Alex mentioned they were waiting for paperwork to be finalized, possibly as early as yesterday.

Stay tuned for updates here, guys, regarding Stephen F’s availability for next winter. I know you’re going to want to snap up this designer’s elegant clothing the minute you touch it, let alone wear it around a fitting room.

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Designer/Creative Director Stephen-F flanked by business partner/model Alex Lundqvist and models.

Stephen with business partner Alex Lundqvist, who makes for a great brand ambassador of the collection

Stephen with business partner Alex Lundqvist, also the brand ambassador of the collection, seen here wearing a green velvet db tuxedo over a cashmere turtleneck.

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I couldn't resist, I remember working with model Alex Lundqvist back in my DNR days. Such a handsome, lovely man, heis now business partners with Stephen Ferber for the Stephen-F collection.

I couldn’t resist – I remember working with model Alex Lundqvist back in my DNR days. Such a handsome, lovely man, the business partner still has the sweetest personality. 

MBFW AW15 Ricardo Seco:
Stepping Out the Real Way

Mexican designer Ricardo Seco has been doing such a wonderful job of making cool, wearable menswear since 2012 that every season I come away wishing my husband owned and wore at least one piece of his great artistically-crafted clothing.

But I’m on a different mission now after seeing his AW2015 collection and learning that this designer’s colorful collaborative work with New Balance isn’t selling anywhere here in the States. Okay, just do it, book my flight to Mexico City, stat! These brilliant beaded trainers are the perfect ticket for some hot sales here, if I do say so myself.

There was other beautifully beaded, or bead-inspired, work reminiscent of contemporary Mexican art. Seco said he wanted to bring Real to his collection this season, interpreting the traditions and innovations of Mexico for the rest of the world. Some of his graphic black and white patterns looked like stained glass mosaics reinvented without color. Some of those patterns ended up twisted into beaded detail work on the sleeves of pony skin and leather cropped jackets or on the flaps of backpacks or used overall for patterned punch on a hooded leather and wool coats, a pair of trim narrow trousers, even as a sport jacket with impeccable tailoring.

However, those shoes were truly the show stoppers. In black and white or in color. These are kicks that will take you stylin’ every step of the way, always in fashion and beyond. Ricardo Seco certainly is keeping it Real.

Ricardo Seco AW15

Ricardo Seco AW15 Ricardo Seco AW15 Ricardo Seco AW15

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Ricardo Seco AW15 Ricardo Seco AW15

Designer Ricardo Seco

Designer Ricardo Seco

 

 

MBFW Street Style AW15: Hat Head

Baby, it’s been cold out there at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week held at Lincoln Center, no matter how many chicklettes have been sporting shorts under their coats (yes, seriously, it’s been a trend, I’ve seen the pix).

Mostly though, great hats — especially the wool felt fedora or floppy wide brim — have been the top trend in street style. But what is it about everyone glued to their smart phones?!

MBFW AW15

Our lovely Fashion Whirled photographer Olga Viakhireva, out on assignment! Check out the beautiful jewelry she designs here.

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Photos courtesy of Olga Viakhireva

 

Rubin & Chapelle AW15:
Freezing for Fashion

Yes, that’s a partially frozen Hudson River below, the view west past the models at the Rubin & Chapelle Autumn/Winter 2015 presentation from the Top of the Standard near the High Line last Friday. That also was the tundra-like landscape off which the wind whipped, chilling to the bone the journalists, bloggers and photographers invited to cover that show, many of whom were made to wait outside for over half an hour in the wildly windy “feels like” temps of that day. Some of those fashionably-attired previously-mentioned were dressed wearing no socks but cool (no pun intended) pumps, short dresses, no hats or scarves — and had to huddle together en masse for warmth before making it upstairs. We never found out the reason for the 10th Avenue fashion freeze out.

Rubin & Chapelle AW15But, anyway, once we made it inside and up to the venue with the stunning views, we warmed to not only the indoor temperatures, but also to the adorable, wearable clothes. Worked up by partners in design Sonja Rubin and Kip Chapelle who collaborated with designer Johanna Michel, prints referenced traditional Scottish motifs, but rescaled and distorted digitally for versions of tartan and argyle. Hence, the Wellies-styled footwear by Sperry Top-Sider paired with many of the outfits. Outstanding favorites, and those that should be super popular come next fall/winter, were the circle skirts in graphic black and white or grey, an equestrian-themed dolman blouse and the graphic printed long dresses. Personally, I loved the bit of distressed edges on armholes; I’m always one for a raw uneven finish, as long as I can layer under it.

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Saunder AW15: A Resounding Royal Oui

I hate to be a cry baby, but this was one of the worst venues to maneuver around in the name of “viewing fashion.” Perhaps I was upset because I lost my favorite black wool knit hat there while trying to do just that. Maybe it was because I almost fell into one of the models standing on her raised pedestal after someone with a backpack swung around to take said model’s picture. Or chalk it up to having to squeeze through non-existing holes in fashionistas six abreast to get from the first group of models to the end of the fashion gauntlet. Whenever it was, the narrow little presentation path at Ed’s Chowder House at The Empire Hotel was clearly entirely too narrow to encourage great fashion feedback.

But, ah, there’s the rub. I actually fell in love with much of designer Emily Saunders’ Saunder AW2015 collection. Her creative refashioning of clothing based around the cutting off of wife Catherine of Aragon by Henry the Eighth (or was that her head?!) was inspired by London stage adaptations of Hilary Mantel’s novels Wolf Hall and Bring Up the Bodies. She stuck with the metaphor on many levels, from makeup to fingertips.

Saunders gave a quirky nod to tweeds, tartans, Tudor tailoring and punk. But it was the nails that were to die for, as was the jewelry. Accessories designer Megan Isaacs, in a fourth collaboration with Saunder that she called Modern Tudor, put forth an heirloom box’s worth of jewelry meant for a queen. And the nails? Nail artist Patricia Yankee crafted each one into tiny jewelry on the end of each finger.

This is fashion you don’t need to lose your head over — it’s easy to understand and will be great to wear next winter. Have a look; we’ve already parted the crowds for you.

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Desigual and Christian Lacroix’s Cultural Mashup AW15

Exotic blanket sweaters is cropping up as one of my favorite trends for Autumn/Winter 2015. Some of the best, including the best pom pom’d berets, printed puffer jacket amid the Oriental carpet motif sweaters, walked the runway at Desigual, where wildly intense colors and patterns helped the happy down the runway for AW15. The collection’s “living canvas,” as stated in the run-of-show notes, was inspired by a global mashup of “the artist’s atelier.” And the artist’s studio in question here would be that of Christian Lacroix’s. Mixing the lush, the exotic, the multicolored and the lavishly textured, Desigual spun out a cultural exchange from inspiration to production. Mix the moments.

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Desigual AW15

Duckie Brown AW15: Tomorrow is Not Just Another Day

Serene, sophisticated, clean…with the prettiest palette this side of Lincoln Center. And, as tends to be the case, one of my favorite menswear collections. There’s always so much creativity, but such that is honed to perfection by unusual cut, impeccable tailoring and ultimate wearability.

Tearing down the walls of backstage and creating a transparency that merged into the front row, designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver put their hopes and dreams for a new “tomorrow,” as their show invite stated, front and center at their West Village venue at Industria. It was one part voyeurism (were you, too, thinking 50 Shades of Brown?!) and one part fashion art performance.

Pinks and clarets in silk charmeuse served as open wrapped cardigans. Floaty white chiffon turtlenecks were tucked into pleated trousers that flowed languid and loose. Collarless overcoats came out in grey flannels and buffalo checks. These were the obvious makings of a grown-up collection worthy of the self-possessed mature man.

Bring it, Duckie. We are ready for tomorrow.

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And the walls came down…prior to the presentation

 

Duckie Brown AW15

Duckie Brown AW15 Duckie Brown AW15 Duckie Brown AW15 Duckie Brown AW15

Menswear Has Its (Own) Day: NYMD Sponsored by Cadillac,
Precursor to Next Season’s New York Fashion Week: Men’s

New York Fashion Week may have kicked off yesterday with the emphasis on women’s fashion, female models and all the hair and makeup backstage pampering and primping that gets the long-limbed ladies ready to catwalk during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center — not to mention all the other wayward environs in and around NYC that can and are laying host to fashion spectacle this season.

But it’s menswear that is getting quite the shout out this season, with double bookings held at Industria Superstudio for the New York Mens Day shows this past Wednesday, talk on the scene about a new menswear fashion week this summer hosted by the Council of Fashion Designers and sponsored by Amazon, and interest and excitement in a fast-growing market segment reinforced by up-ticking sales figures at retail. It’s all thanks, in large part, to Erin Hawker at Agentry PR, who started NYMD three seasons ago to accommodate her menswear clients and never looked back.

NYMD AW2015

A roster of six designers presented at the 11 a.m. morning session — Fingers Crossed, newcomer Garcie Velez, David Hart, Ernest Alexander in the main building and Cadet and Lucio Castro across the street in the West 12th Street studio building. Another six later in the day at 5 p.m. included Gents, who launched a new socks line, Chapter, J.Lindeberg, Timo Weiland, Carlos Campos and a vamped-up Hickey Freeman designed by its new Creative Director David Hart (yes, he of his eponymous line shown in the a.m. hour). Focusing on crisp tailoring, modern athletic looks and just plain great men’s sportswear gussied up enough for that very, very interested consumer come Autumn/Winter 2015, consider this just a little sneak peek at what the upcoming four days of New York Fashion Week: Men’s in July may hold as the CFDA amps up the menswear sway with its own runway calendar dates.

It’s been a while since menswear has had its own calendar week. And, okay, while four days in July is not quite a week, it’ll do for now. But as those attending Wednesday’s NYMD shows attested to, we are ready for a major menswear movement.

Tom Julian, men’s fashion director at The Doneger Group, believes that “the men’s market is timed well for 2016 given the men’s sales growth (over $60 billion now) and interest in men’s style from young millennial consumers to boomers. Menswear taking the stage is a marketing platform that will help designers and brands to be global, cultural, retail-right. We have seen concepts of a men’s fashion week in prior decades but it was always trade focused…today, the consumer connection is key and will help to drive the business quicker.”

My favorites at this season’s NYMD were the collections designed by David Hart with his deft hand at American West blanket-style sweaters and great outerwear, the cooler-than-cool mix of outerwear, narrow trousers and silver at J.Lindeberg and the sleek, crisp tailoring at GarciaVelez.

Gentlemen, get ready to rock some inspired looks. There’s even a furry lambswool chaps-like pair of pants from David Hart!

David Hart

David Hart

David Hart

David Hart

David Hart

David Hart

Designer David Hart with models

Designer David Hart with models

David Hart

David Hart

Cadet

Cadet

Ernest Alexander

Ernest Alexander

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Fingers Crossed, left, and Lucio Castro

 

Ernest Alexander

Ernest Alexander

Fingers Crossed

Fingers Crossed from designer Ryu Hayama manifested the young man and the sea

GarciaVelez

GarciaVelez

Designer GarciaVelez with Joh Siff

Designer GarciaVelez with Joh Siff

Designer GarciaVelez

Designer GarciaVelez

Ch.

Chapter

Ch.

Chapter

Hickey Freeman

Hickey Freeman

Hickey Freeman

Hickey Freeman

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

J.Lindeberg

Timo Weiland

Timo Weiland

Carlos Campos

Carlos Campos

Gents

Gents

New Gents Socks

New Gents Socks

Fashion Freedom for All Men, Everywhere,
Especially at Liberty Fairs’ AW15 Pier 94 Show

Freedom of choice, it’s what men want. And what men will be getting for AW15. Especially if the clothing seen at the Freedom Hall installation at Liberty Fairs on Pier 94 earlier this week is any indication. Throughout the rest of the show, as well. The menswear we saw was innovative, from patterned lambswool gloves from Honns that work on touch screen devices to rain gear from Norway Rain modernized with cape silhouettes that included arm holes and detachable shearling collars. The clothing was quality driven, like the handmade bags at Peg and Awl, the handmade boots at Austrian-based Ludwig Reiter and the hand hewn knives at Poglia.  All fit for the contemporary style freedom of today’s fashion fearless guy.
Liberty Fairs Show AW15

Poglia handmade knives

Poglia handmade knives from designer Max Polia

...knives on the metal from which they are cut and hewn

…knives on the metal from which they are cut and hewn

Liberty Fairs Show AW15

Ludwig Reiter handmade boots from Austria

Liberty Fairs Show AW15

Peg and Awl from Philadelphia use locally sourced waxed cotton, leather from WWII gun slings and sometimes bits of antique fabric from aprons or feedbacks.

Peg and Awl

Peg and Awl

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Santorisan calls its handicraft “footwear with a soul”

Norwegian Rain

Norwegian Rain’s coolest of cool poncho rain cape with sleeve-ettes and detachable wool shearling collar

Himel Bros

Himel Bros. motorcycle inspired leather popover

Liberty Fairs Show AW15

Hickey Freeman’s new creative director David Hart amid some of his new designs

Hickey's classic shearling goes rogue with piecinga

Hickey’s classic shearling goes rogue with piecinga

Hickey Freeman's modern rain gear

Hickey Freeman’s modern rain gear

Liberty Fairs Show AW15

New to Liberty, LA-based Honns — get it? it’s a play on HANDS! — puts its leather gloves that work on touch screens under glass

New Menswear at Project and Agenda for AW14

If the Project and Agenda shows on Monday at the Javits Center were any indication, menswear for Autumn/Winter 2015 is being thoughtfully designed for the guy with his own fully-formed, style signature, a gentleman who seeks out quality-made products that speak to individuality and statement, often handmade, sometimes signed and always unique. I think of the handmade boots by the Italian family-run company Fracap, the handmade bags from Bleu de Chauffe, each one signed by the individual artisan, and the sterling or gold artisan cuffs from Brighten’s Juki Morizane.

Project Show AW15

Todd Snyder and Champion's collaboration

Todd Snyder and Champion’s collaboration included this sweatshirt, below…

Todd Synder + Champion with washable "leather" and fleece sweatshirt

…with washable “leather” and fleece

Tiger of Sweden motorcycle leather

Tiger of Sweden’s motorcycle leather was washed, soft and quilted

Pretty Green

Pretty Green’s military inspiration

Bleu de Chauffe's camouflage take on a reporter's bag made in an LV style fabric

Bleu de Chauffe’s camo take on a tote made in an LV style fabric…

Each handmade Bleu de Chauffe bag is signed by the artisan

…with each handmade Bleu de Chauffe bag signed by the artisan

Fracap's military style snow boots, handmade in Italy

Fracap’s military style snow boots are from a family-run business and are handmade in Italy

Troubadour's leather carry all

London-based Troubadour’s leather carry alls…

Troubadour

…are made in Italy and the super smooth zipper teeth are 3-D printed

Rockstar's denim, rockin' washable leather

Rockstar’s denim rocked washable leather

Mr. Turk brings back the jumpsuit onesie

Mr. Turk brings back double-faced fabrics and the jumpsuit onesie

Agave Denim

Agave Denim dresses up with chalk stripes

The adorable...and so talented jewelry designer Juki Morizane

The adorable…and so talented jewelry designer Juki Morizane of Brighten

Agenda Show AW15

Packed house

Packed house

Michael Cherry in his bedazzled logo T

Michael Cherry in his bedazzled logo T-shirt

Weatherproof poncho from LA-based  Brandblack

Weatherproof poncho from LA-based Brandblack

Like neoprene, but not Brandblack outerwear shirt

Like neoprene, but not, bonded Brandblack outerwear shirt

Blackbrand's CD Billy Dill and founder David Raysse

Blackbrand’s CD Billy Dill and founder David Raysse