Tag Archives: AW14

The Art Institutes AW14

Creativity was in full force Tuesday night as 13 student and alumni designers from The Art Institutes presented their micro-collections at Lincoln Center during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. The burgeoning designers came from all walks of life. There was a former marine, a carpenter, an architect, a mother – all of whom switched or added careers in order to design.

Industry experts John Bartlett, Bonnie Young, Cliodna Egan, Christina Neault and Douglas Hannant selected and mentored the talented up-and-coming Gustavo Alonso, Luis Aponte, Joshuan Aponte, Lauren Barisic, Lorena Cabrera, Anna Charest, Samuel Ciccone, Michael Doyle, Ryan Edmonds, German Madrigal, Christopher Maracha, Rei Yamamoto and Simone Young.

Bravo and Brava! Here a view into each one’s world:

The Art Institute AW14 MBFW Show

Simone Young’s hand dyed silk

The Art Institute AW14 MBFW Show

Lorena Cabrera’s architectural lines

The Art Institutes AW14 MBFW Show

Luis Aponte’s “special event attire”

The Art Institutes AW14 MBFW Show

Michael Doyle’s avant-garde experimentalism

The Art Institute AW14 MBFW Show

Christopher Maracha’s sheer mesh for the skater crew

The Art Institute AW14 MBFW Show

Joshuan Aponte’s version of the down puffer

The Art Institute AW14 MBFW Show

Lauren Barisic’s Americana inspiration

The Art Institutes AW14 MBFW Show

Gustavo Alonso’s romantic cocktail wear

Rie Yamamoto's Time Travelers vintage/modern aesthetic

Rie Yamamoto’s Time Travelers vintage/modern aesthetic

Anna Charest's creation inspired by a Civil War medical wagon

Anna Charest’s creation inspired by a Civil War medical wagon

Samuel Ciccone's appreciation of black

Samuel Ciccone’s appreciation of black

The Art Institutes MBFW AW14 Show

Design duo Ryan Edmonds and German Madrigal balanced nongender-specific creations

Carmen Marc Valvo AW14 – Medieval Modern

Chain mail, metallic leather, bling for days. These were gowns for the strongest of women, leaders, ladies ready for battle deep into the night. All at the hand of Carmen Marc Valvo, a master of the flowing evening dress. His AW14 styles were transformative.

After the show a very happy CMV gushed to his crowd of admirers and fans, which included the lovely Vanessa Williams. Strong women, indeed.

Carmen Marc Valvo AW14 Carmen Marc Valvo AW14

Carmen Marc Valvo Carmen Marc Valvo

Vanessa Williams at Carmen Marc Valvo

Designer Carmen Marc Valvo

Ricardo Seco AW14 –
Ask Not What Your Designer Can Do for You…

Ask what the Kennedys can do for your designer!

The 35th president of the United States and his family played a major influence in “Forever,” the AW14 menswear collection of Mexican-born designer Ricardo Seco, who showed yesterday evening at the always-impressive Angel Orensanz Foundation space.

Designer Ricardo Seco

Designer Ricardo Seco

As the show started down the runway with JFK’s voice intoning over the sound system, you realized that this model was wearing a sweatshirt printed with Jackie’s face, that one was swaggering by with a young JFK, Jr. saluting on his cashmere sweater, another one was wearing what could only be described as the original Jackie Kennedy Oleg Cassini A-line coat, replete with the oversized cloth-covered buttons and 3/4 sleeves.

Then there were the scarves. Silk scarves printed Warhol-like with Jackie-O and John John were tied low around the chests of Seco’s models, almost like a bondage style shawl. Ricardo told me after the show that he was inspired by the ’60s Kennedy era for his urban man, taking Jackie Kennedy’s penchant for pastels, A-line silhouettes and classic Americana styles and working them into a masculine, tailored collection.

He definitely got that right. Some of the covered-button coats may have looked a little like a guy playing dress up in styles from the thrift store, but stranger things have happened within the rock ‘n roll set, who, at least with dressing à la Jackie Kennedy, can place the style bar high. And as the coat kept coming down the runway in various renditions, it started to grow on me. The mohair charcoal Jackie coat was super cool. And there were other elements that I liked. The pink pants rocked. A black and grey pieced car coat worn over a “Pillboxes & Peacoats” printed T, leather shorts over coordinating pieced leggings was a little bit urban, a little bit punk. And while the scarves were surely a runway scarf trick, the sweaters printed with Jackie-O and little John John saluting will be great novelty sellers.

Seco closed the show with the Simon and Garfunkel classic “The Sound of Silence,” a song written in the aftermath of JFK’s assassination, as his models took to a tableaux on the stage behind him, the better to look at and photograph the clothes.

Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14 Ricardo Seco AW14

 

 

 

Noon by Noor AW14

Designing cousins Noor Al Khalifa and Haya Al Khalifa presented their take on contemporary evening wear to a front row that included The Face’s host, Nigel Barker. Colors were saturated, Swarovski crystals were plentiful and skirts were long, drapey and dramatic. My favorites were the camel coat-covered red party dress toward the beginning of the show and the burgundy floor-sweeper encrusted with bling. The super messy pony-tail hair do’s and the deep burgundy wine lip were great styling elements that accentuated the Eastern-Western influence of the Noon by Noor collection.

The Face's Nigel Barker

The Face’s Nigel Barker

Noon by Noor AW14

Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14

Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14 Noon by Noor AW14

It’s in the Bag at Trina Turk and Mr Turk AW14

Handbags may have been the newest addition manifested from Trina Turk’s imagination, but the freshness came directly from the clothes themselves.

Trina Turk AW14

Her eponymous women’s collection, shown in tandem with Mr Turk menswear for AW14 at The Hudson Hotel’s The Hub venue last week, was modern yet nostalgic at the same time. Trina cited California cool as the inspiration, as though the Turks had spun along “Sunset Boulevard through LA from Silverlake to the sea.” Fresh mixes of patterns, colors, textures and cuts made their Palm Springs-focused mark. Think bold florals, vibrant reds and turqs, tweeds and plaids. Swingy shorter jacket silhouettes. Sexy and slim pants and skirts. And those handbags! Just the right amount of edge to stave off any lady-like prissiness. Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Mr Turk, designed by photographer/stylist/Trina husband Jonathan Skow, had a retro gentleman’s-punk attitude going on, echoing the womenswear with a slim fit, quirky pattern combos and color mixes. Jonathan has said the menswear is exactly his style. And he wears it well.

These two collections looked so cool, so modern, they could’ve been seen out on Lincoln Center’s Plaza, being stalked by the street style blog photogs instead of being showcased in the basement of the The Hub. These are clothes that are as perfect for jumping around from fashion show to show as they are for the upcoming Oscars Red Carpet wear – how ’bout those his-and-hers black and green jacquard tuxes? Gotta be fresh.

Mr. Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Trina Turk and Mr Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14 Trina Turk and Mr. Turk AW14

Designer Trink Turk wearing her Mr. Turk menswear

Designer Trink Turk wearing her Mr. Turk menswear

Mr. Turk designer Jonathan Skow

Mr. Turk designer Jonathan Skow

On the Line at Todd Snyder AW14

Todd Snyder AW14

It’s a Mod, Mod, Mod World over at Todd Snyder. The very contemporary Autumn/Winter 2014 collection distilled British rock references with Saville Row tailoring techniques (a true three-button role stance) and American casualness achieved with sporty knits. Eyewear from The Vintage Revival imbued a retro edge to some looks. Evening wear, as fitting for 007 as any and included the cream dinner jacket, biker chic leathers and military outerwear vied with relaxed but ready knit blazers, narrow ties and graphic knits. And check out those Cole Haan Chelsea boots. Todd is a master at mixing modern men’s wear. Guys, trust me. Todd Snyder is in your future.

Todd Snyder AW14 Todd Snyder AW14 Todd Snyder AW14 Todd Snyder AW14Designer Todd Snyder on the right

Designer Todd Snyder on the right

Pop Pop Pop, Pop Culture at Desigual AW14

Perhaps it was Desigual’s imperative for AW14 that when La Vida Es Chula (when life is cool), love is always in the air. Maybe it was the colorful styles, with quirky, contemporary prints and patterns, that were totally wearable. It could’ve been the Gaudi-esque energy that exuded from the collection. Whatever it was, I always seem to fall in love with the clothes from this Barcelona-based house.

Desigual AW14

Alex Wek dancing down the catwalk at Desigual pretty much summed up the season. Fun and filled with mixes of happy patterns, beginning with the black and white that kicked off the show, ending with a riot of color and metallics, the collection moved in step to the beat of a Barcelona heart. Loved watching Alex prance down the runway, then, at end of show, offer up a big gold heart of gratitude from the designers.

Desigual AW14Desigual AW14 Desigual AW14 Desigual AW14 Desigual AW14 Desigual AW14

Duckie Brown AW14

Finally! Clothing at Duckie Brown this season that I can actually wear – and all without having to resort to searching for their exquisitely and precisely tailored men’s wear in small sizes. Yes, the Duckie has two faces for Autumn/Winter 2014. Hellooooo, ladies!

Duckie Brown AW14

But the men’s wear shone as ever before – standing strong on the Duckies’ voluminous cuts, classic silhouettes, cheeky layering, and, this season, their bright and happy colors.

Gotta love a collection that puts on two happy faces.

Duckie Brown AW14 Duckie Brown AW14 Duckie Brown AW14 Duckie Brown AW14 Duckie Brown AW14

Duckie Brown AW14

Designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver take their place in the sun as they walk the runway at their show’s finale.

The designers backstage with Joe Jonas

The designers backstage with Joe Jonas

 

 

Southern Breeze – MRket AW14

Macko's Picks

Macko’s Picks

MRket’s show theme may have been Alpine Winter, apropos of style maven Michael Macko’s picks that intro’d the Javits Center exhibitors’ hall, but it was what I was calling the “Southern Aisle” that drew me in. I mean, maybe it had something to do with the practically 10 degree wind chill factor outside or the ice impeding the sidewalk as you tried to make your way over toward the Hudson River venue. But I really, really liked the preppiness of the clothes and furnishings at companies like Olde School Brand, Castaway Clothing-Nantucket Island, Southern Proper and Brentley Cravats. It took me back to my Charleston upbringing, my Gamecock university days – shagging at happy hours and gatoring at quad parties. And how can you not love a company called Collard Greens?! I mean, really.

Of course, the updated pea coats looked warm, inviting and great, too, especially in vibrant red, like the one from Camplin. Get ready, guys – I think being red hot will be THE outerwear statement for next winter!

Brentley Cravats

Brentley Cravats

Southern Proper

Southern Proper

Castaway Clothing-Nantucket Island

Castaway Clothing-Nantucket Island

Korchmar

New canvas and leather bags from Korchmar

Olde School Brand

Olde School Brand

Camplin

Camplin

Moore & Giles

Moore & Giles

Get Your International On – Liberty and Man Shows AW14

John Park from London wearing his Natural Selection grey flannel wool quilted layering piece.

John Park from London wearing his Natural Selection grey flannel wool quilted layering piece.

Out of a week of menswear trade shows (Project uptown west at Pier 94, Capsule downtown at Basketball City, Agenda in Soho, Liberty near the river at 22nd Street and the Man NY Show at Industria Superstudios toward the end of the long haul), came some of the coolest sportswear, jewelry, shoes and newest, unexpected accessories. Leather suspenders, anyone?!  Liberty and Man, especially, (can’t make it to Paris this season? Make damn sure you made it to Man.), shined to all those who stomped around in their heavy snow boots, traipsing from venue to venue.

Here, a few I found outstanding: Continue reading