how he used the natural cut of a pelt to give leather jackets and shorts an unusually-textured bottom edge, played with linen and cotton for suits and tops that looked crisp, clean and contemporary and added accessories that built upon the black Converse tennis shoes he partnered with last year.
Category Archives: NYFW
Fern Mallis show on SiriusXM Wraps up New York Fashion Week
the audience in the “fishbowl” at her wrap up of NYFW on Sirius XM taped live this past Friday afternoon:
Duckie Brown Designers Daniel Silver and Steven Cox, FW’s Friday:5ive
FW: What made you first realize you wanted to design clothes? Were you always into fashion and how? Tell me about your favorite fashion or designer pieces over the years?
DB: STEVEN HAS ALWAYS BEEN A DESIGNER AND STUDIED AT LIVERPOOL UNIVERSITY.
Duckie Brown NYFW SS13
Actor Alan Rickman sat quietly front row, checking out the impressive Duckie Brown offerings earlier this afternoon at Industria Superstudio, his pensive demeanor never revealing his favorites within the collection.
“Fresh. Clean. Modern.” That’s how Daniel Silver, who along with Steven Cox is one half of the design duo behind Duckie Brown, described the Spring/Summer 2013 collection, called Duckie
Pleasures, later backstage. And while the clothes were definitely toned down a bit this season — very wearable with a more tucked-in approach to the tailoring — they still retained elements of the team’s signature wide silhouette detailing and unusual trouser cuts.
Wide, deep sleeves adorned double-faced T-shirts while super, oversized cuffs finished trousers as well as shorts. Bleached denim crafted work jackets as well as 2-button sport jackets, while washed leather created the perfect bomber. And tartans and plaids were used for great effect on straight-bottom shirts, jackets, overalls, backless tux jackets and ruffle back trousers. Harness-like neck or arm belts trailed on top of many of the long jackets, for what use, who knows?!
Perhaps, one could imagine the models as fine race horses, awaiting a jockey to grab that lead before racing off to their next collection. After all, the designers are gearing up for their design debut with the Perry Ellis collection showing next Tuesday. It’s a race to the finish. For now, let’s call it a win, place and show for Duckie Pleasures!
Fashion Farmboy Bjorn Nasett on FW’s Friday:5ive
comes from the heart, and I greatly value and appreciate our new-found friendship. His background amazes me. Model, photo fashion stylist, vintage clothing buyer (he has an Etsy store here), hair stylist, makeup artist, fashion writer and now fashion photographer (he’s coming to NYC to shoot the runway shows during NYFW next month). Not only does he really actually come from a farm — he was raised in Rockdale, Wisconsin, sort of near where my sister was born (Oshkosh, b’gosh!) — but he bravely left those environs for Madison at the tender age of sixteen, where he immersed himself in the art and performance world. As a model, then an entertainer at various infamous clubs (including one of which was frequented, scarily enough, by Jeffrey Dahmer at the time), he landed in Milwaukee where he worked as a sought-after club performer for thirteen years from age 17 to 35. Covering the days of disco, punk, and rock ‘n roll of the ’80s, Bjorn was named one of the city’s top performers by Milwaukee Journal Sentinel in 1991, during what he refers to as the “mini-Warhol scene” that was transpiring in that town.

FashionWhirled: How and why has thrift become a passion for you? With your role as Goodwill’s fashion expert and a background as varied as growing up on a farm to being a model, hair stylist, writer (what aren’t you able to do?!), what part does vintage or thrift play for you in every aspects of your life, professionally and personally?
Bjorn Nasett, the Fashion Farmboy: Growing up on a farm, re-using and recycling wasn’t a virtue, it was a necessity! My mother, Audrey, was someone who could always find beauty in everything. A coat of paint, or a remodeling of one of her old jackets into a suit of clothes for one of her children, wasn’t only thrifty, but truly brought her joy. In a small way, I try to let people know that style and fashion exist in your thought process, and that can be manifested in many ways, including items found thrifting or elsewhere. Really, though, enjoyment of what you wear, and fully owning that experience is what sincerely means great style to me. Whether it is the latest from Marc Jacobs, or a hand-me-down from a friend. Making anything you wear into YOUR personal style is what fashion has and always will be about, no matter what anyone says.
FW: When and where do you shop for the special pieces you find? How do your finds change you emotionally, psychologically? What criteria do you use in making the decision to recycle, reuse, renovate or reinvigorate a thrift find to sell on your Etsy shop?
FFB: When I shop for items to re-sell, or wear myself, I only shop at charity thrift stores that have some benefit to the community they are located in. Many people do not realize that stores like these often provide vital, even life-saving programs to people in need of assistance. Too often we judge others by the clothing on their backs and not the content of their character, so I’m very proud to support these organizations. The criteria I use is pretty simple, quality, design, and wearability. What good is something vintage if it is unwearable? Then it becomes a costume, and that’s fine for Halloween, but not for everyday wear. I search for classic silhouettes on my thrice or more weekly shopping trips! When shopping thrift, you must have a plan of attack. I always do dresses first, quickly skimming the rack without looking at every piece, next is jackets, blouses, etc. I don’t spend more than an hour in any one store. If I do then there must be tons of great stuff, which I pile in my cart, and carefully inspect last, before I check out! [Ed. note: We must go thrifting together!]
FW: Who is your muse, why is he/she your muse and how does he or she affect the style decisions you make?
FFB: As a kid, I grew up watching the black and white movies on the late, late show. I was mesmerized by the stylization of the women’s clothing in vintage films. Even though this may sound predictable, I particularly loved the Hepburn’s, Audrey, and Katharine! They were always chic and sophisticated throughout their lives. I often think of them when shopping. Would this be suitable on either of them? Since they both epitomize great personal style, it is no wonder they’ve become iconic. Plus, thinking of them helps me restrain my crazy inner Mrs. Roper, who loves wild prints and over the top accessories!! Not that that’s a bad thing! I also loved Cary Grant, always stylish, rakish, dapper, all those adjectives! He’s at his most stylish in “To Catch a Thief” his casual look with the neck scarf just slays me! In a good way of course. He was handsome and fashionable all the way into his waning years. LOVED his big black glasses later in life!
Audrey Hepburn starred with Cary Grant in the 1963 movie “Charade”
FW: If you could have any notable individual — dead or alive — visit your “pop-up shop” on Etsy, who would that be and what items would you want to dress them in or want them to purchase as their own?! Which piece(s) are your favorite(s) and why?
FFB: I would love to have Chloe Sevigny visit.
Why? Because she’s fearless when it comes to fashion. She wears what she likes whether she’s criticized by the “Fashion Police” or not. I would want her to wear this beautiful vintage 60’s coatdress made of ivory silk.
I just think it would give her a wonderful sense of refinement, very Jackie O. My favorite piece however, is a full circle skirt from the 50’s that is made of black wool felt and imprinted with a gold floral filigree design and rhinestone embellishment. It is a crazy beautiful piece! I found it on the Christmas Tree Skirt rack at a thrift store. They had no idea it was a vintage Dior inspired skirt!
FW: What words of wisdom do you live by, or strive to live by, and why? What advise would you give to others?
FFB: Wearing a great big smile is the best fashion accessory of all! Being as inclusive as you can, rather than exclusive with fashion advice to others, and to seek what is meaningful to you in your life, and the rest will fall stylishly into place.
Friday : 5ive with Doll Perfumier Rocker Dana Varon
Dress with faux fur by Octopi
raspy voice as she accompanies herself on her cool white-racer-striped black electric guitar at nearby EV bars. “Momma’s Man,” the 2008 movie she plays Laura in, is out on DVD. Her blog Living DollDV serves as her sounding board for all things creative and she’s covered NYFW for Dossier Journal and modaCycle.com. She’s also the creator of Doll perfume oil, which is sold through her website and at retail venues like Grey Era Vintage, (psst! we told you about that a couple weeks ago!). And as you can see, she’s a living doll herself, which I can testify to also, since she’s my neighbor and friend in the building and is as sweet and adorable a doll-like individual as you will ever want to meet.
FashionWhirled: What role does scent and fashion, play in your everyday life and when was that first moment that you knew you had become deeply involved in fashion (i.e., as a child or teen)?
Dana Varon: Scent and fashion def play a role in my everyday life because to me they are both forms of expression, feeling and who you are. Everyone has a certain style (though I change mine often) and scent that makes them uniquely them; being a musician I always loved that fashion can help to get across an artistic view along with smell, think of all the great artists, they all had a look and you can imagine what they smelled like – ha. Smell is nostalgic to me and always was – as a kid I used to have those Strawberry Shortcake dolls with the colored hair (there was a blue berry one. too) and they smelled so good, loved those (apparently still love the pink/blue hair thing).
I also remember stowing away my mom’s Halston perfume and grandma’s Ambrose by Dana, ironically, in my bathroom cabinet – then as a teen I would come home and wash my hair again if it smelled like smoke or food, my old friends can vouch for this one! Also in my teens, I still wore those decadent perfumes, but started mixing wearing oils and balms and continued that until, well, now. I think that started from going to my friend’s country house near Woodstock to the little shops that had them and Grateful Dead shows, plus also having an affinity for the luxurious perfumes I was exposed to as a kid. Notice how I answered this fashion question with a scent answer, still obsessed with scent. Fashion for me first came from my mom who was authentically stylish & magazines that I used to read front to back as a teen, still do, just finished Harper’s Bazaar last night and LOVE mag is on my ottoman. My parents used to take my sister and me shopping in the city, old SoHo before it was so commercialized to Anna Sui, that flea market, etc., my mom loved Bloomingdale’s so I was there from when I was in a stroller. That all shaped me too.
FW: Who is your fashion muse(s) and what importance do he/she/they play in your career as a perfume designer in particular and as a person in general?
DV: Wow, this is a hard one for me because I have a bunch. You know I love the rock dolls – Marianne Faithfull, just adored her look with the bangs and sideburns and tailored pieces that worked so well with it all on her, Stevie Nicks with all of her lace and capes, platforms, rings and Courtney Love’s older dark bowed and baby doll look, plus her current glamourous clothing and line she is making – she is underrated with fashion. I also love Grace Coddington’s (Vogue) eye and her images have definitely shaped me. They are just gorgeous. Oh and Robert Plant.
I just get inspired by so many every day – that’s partially why I started my blog. I am newly inspired all the time and document it there. All the music I listen to, all the images I see, experiences, places I have been/go indoors and out – they all help shape what I create. Scent is so nostalgic to me so usually it will start from me wanting to create something I remember, capturing the smell of a favorite place, time or thing, or to evoke a certain type of feeling. It’s all tied into one for me in my life.
FW: If you could have any notable person – dead or alive – wear your Doll essential oil, who would it be and which scent do you think they would choose?
DV: My mom. I think she would choose Grav-i-tate because she loved vanilla and a more powdery type of note or maybe Starry Eyed because she also liked clean and light. Though when she was younger she would have added Suntanned in there as well for it’s stronger sexier side.
FW: What is, to you, your most impressive piece of clothing that you own now or have owned ever going back to the first fashion thing you can remember?
DV: Right now, I have these two vintage bustiers that are so beautiful, one is white covered in white lace flowers all over it and the other is a sort of halter strapped black Lolita Lempicka one. I also have this long purple velvet cape.
FW: What are your words to live by, for example, if there was an affirmation or quote or sentiment for you as Doll the essential oil designer and/or as Dana the individual, what would that be?!
DV: To be free, be real, follow your heart/gut & be kind. Try to do what you love, make & surround yourself with beauty and send it back out. I just want to make people feel good.
Ricardo Seco AW2012
Duckie Brown at Work
Fern Mallis and More Happiness is a Bright Summer Dress
The Snoozy Winehouse Poof at SS ’12 NYFW
